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| Bulbs Bird Feeding Bobbex Composting Mulch Orchard Spraying Pest & Product Solutions Seed Potatoes Winter Care of Stone Statuary |
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Growing Hyacinths in Water: • Place bulb in glass in a cool room away from sunlight and keep the water level topped up to just below the base of the bulb • It rapidly produces roots, which grow in the water • Wait until the flower bud begins to show color before moving the rooted hyacinths in a warm, bright-lit room • The shoot then develops and produces blooms • Discard bulb, since it is unlikely to provide a good display the following year
Dividing Overcrowded Bulbs: • If bulbs flower less freely than in previous years, the deterioration is usually due to overcrowding • Lift crowded clumps during the dormant season, before the root growth starts • If not overcrowded, inspect bulbs for pest or disease • If there is no obvious problem, plant the bulbs in a different site
Years of Pleasure: • After the flower and the leaves have completely wilted, you can let the bulbs remain in the ground • After blooming, the bulbs continue to grow for another 4 to 6 weeks, storing food and forming next year’s flowers • Remove the dead flowers so that the bulbs won’t spend their energy making seeds • Allow the foliage to turn yellow and wither naturally – don’t fold the leaves up or cut the leaves off until they are completely brown • Leave the bulbs undisturbed through summer and apply fertilizer again in the fall • To get the bulbs to flower for several years, it’s necessary to add some fertilizer • Use a granular or organic
Naturalizing: • Bulbs spread throughout a lawn or meadow and are a lovely sight in spring • Naturalized bulbs pose a dilemma for lawn care. Mowing the lawn, and therefore the bulbs’ foliage shortly after bloom, prevents the plants from replenishing its food supplies • In areas of naturalizing, you must be willing to let the grass grow until the bulb foliage has yellowed • Naturalize bulbs in an area where mowing isn’t needed, such as along the edge of woods or in a meadow
Forcing Bulbs: • The bulbs are kept in cold, dark places for a few months before bringing them into light to encourage them to flower earlier than they do normally • Hyacinths, tulips, amaryllis, daffodils, and irises are all suitable
Planting in Containers: • Place a layer of rocks at least 1 inch in the bottom of the container • Bulbs should be planted in pots at the same depth as bulbs grown outdoors • Do not allow the soil to dry out completely • Keep the pots in an area that will prevent the pots from freezing in the winter (35-50 degrees) • After 10 weeks, the pots are ready to be brought into gentle warmth • Early-flowering varieties need less cold treatment than late-flowering varieties, which may need up to 16 weeks • Move containers into a cool room between 50-55 degrees, keeping them out of direct sunlight initially. Once the shoots turn green and elongate, move them into more light and warmer conditions, keeping moist but not wet. • In the home, the flowers will last longer if the pots are moved into a cool room at night • Bulbs that have been forced into bloom should be planted in the garden once spring arrives. They will not force well for a second year
Bulb Basics When to Plant: • Plant bulbs in the shade or sunlight in September, October, and November. • Plant before the first hard frost. The Soil: • Loosen well before planting. • Plant flower bulbs in any type of soil as long as there is a good drainage. • If using heavy clay soil, mix the top layer with sand, peat, or compost. How to Plant: • Plant in individual holes or many bulbs in a trench or large hole. • You can create an attractive, natural effect by ‘scattering’ the bulbs and planting where they fall. How Far Apart: • Plant the larger varieties 5 inches apart. • Smaller bulbs are best planted at 4 inch intervals. • If you prefer an uninterrupted area full of color, you can safely plant the bulbs a bit closer together. How Deep: • The rule of thumb is to plant bulbs twice as deep as they are high. Fertilizer: • At planting, apply bone meal or some type of bulb fertilizer in holes before placing bulbs in. • In early spring as soon as leaves begin to emerge, apply fertilizer again, trying not to get it on the leaves. • When flowers begin to fade, apply fertilizer again to keep the leaves green longer. This allows the bulbs to store more food, which is important for the formation of flowers the following year. • An alternative is to apply a four-month duration slow-release fertilizer in place of the spring feeding, this will only have to be applied once. Protection and Watering: • After planting bulbs, water soil well to start root growth. • In the event of severe frost, protect the bulbs by covering the soil with a layer of leaves, compost or other mulch. Disease and Pest: • Aphids – insect clusters on buds, shoots, and undersides of leaves. Sucks plant juices causing stunted or deformed blooms and leaves. Spray with Malathion or rotenone. • Borers – Wormlike larvae feed on leaves and move down to bulbs. Spotted, water-soaked and ragged leaves. Clean up foliage and stalks in fall. Spray Malathion when fans start to grow in spring. • Botrytis Blight – gray-brown spots on plant parts. Woolly fungal growth from spots. Also called gray mold. Buds fail to open and are covered with gray fungal growth. Leaves may wither or fall. Remove and destroy infected plant parts. Spray with Daconil. • Bulb Maggots – White or yellow larvae feeding on bulbs. Leaves become yellow and twisted. Plant stops growing. Discard soft bulbs. Soak firm bulbs in hot water at 110 degrees for 2 ½ hours. • Bulb Mites – tiny white arachnids found on bulbs. Discard infested bulbs. Soak healthy bulbs in hot water at 100 degrees for 1 hour. • Bulb Rot – fungal or bacterial rot on bulbs. Mold may cover bulb. Plants turn yellow, wilt, and die. Discard affected bulbs. Plant healthy bulbs in clean soil. • Leaf-Feeding Beetles – chew plants parts leaving holes. Larvae of some feed on roots. Handpick and destroy. Spray with Bug-B-Gon or rotenone. • Leaf Spots – spots on leaves or flowers caused by fungi encouraged by humid or wet weather. Increase air circulation around plants. Remove badly diseased leaves and flowers. Spray with benomyl if serious. • Nematodes – microscopic roundworms. Stunted off-color plants. Minute galls may be preset on roots. Remove and destroy badly afflicted bulbs. • Powdery Mildew – white, powdery fungal disease on plant parts. Remove badly infected leaves. Spray with benomyl. • Slugs – feeds at night, rasping holes in leaves. Use slug bait. • Thrips – scrape and suck plant tissue. Cause browning, white flecking, and gumminess. Sometimes deformed flower buds and leaves. Remove infested flowers and buds. Spray with Malathion or dust with sulfur or diatomaceous earth. • Viruses – crinkled, mottled deformed leaves, stunted plants, and poor growth. Remove and destroy infected plants. Control the insect vector (aphids). • Wilts – leaves turn yellow and entire plant may wilt and die. Remove infected plants. Practice crop rotation. • Wireworm – wiry, brown, wormlike beetle larvae feeding on bulbs and stems in the soil. Treat soil or bulbs with diazion before planting. Practice crop rotation.
Trax Farms Planter’s Guide for Bulbs Exposed Sites Bulbs that tolerate exposed or windy sites Anemone Chionodoxa Crocus Fritillaria Galanthus Muscari Narcissus, dwarf spp. Scilla Tulips, dwarf spp.
Wall Protection Bulbs that benefit from the protection of a wall Agapanthus Fritillaria Gladiolus Scilla peruviana
Flowers for Cutting Agapanthus Allium Anemone Camassia Dahlia Freesia Gladiolus Iris Lilium Narcissus
Rock Gardens Bulbs suitable for planting in rock gardens Allium, dwarf spp. Anemone, dwarf ssp. Brodiaea, smallest spp. Crocus Galanthus Iris, dwarf spp. Leucojum Muscari Narcissus, dwarf spp. Ornithogalum, dwarf spp. Scilla Tulips, dwarf spp.
Bulbs for Alpine Houses Anemone Crocus Fritillaria Galanthus Iris, dwarf spp. Leucojum Muscari Narcissus, dwarf Ornitogalum Scilla Tulips, dwarf spp.
Naturalizing in Grass Anemone Camassia Chionodoxa Crocus Galanthus Muscari Narcissus, dwarf spp. Ornithogalum nutans Scilla
Hardy Bulbs for Forcing Allium neapolitanum Camassia Chionodoxa Crocus Eranthis Erythronium Fritillaria Galanthus Hyacinths Iris Leucojum Lilium Muscari Narcissus Ornithogalum Puschkinia Scilla Tulip, Early blooming varieties Tulips
Spring and Fall Bulb Planting Bulbs flower practically the whole year through from February to November. Bulbs planted in the fall, such as tulips, daffodils and hyacinths, bloom from the middle of winter to July. Bulbs planted in the spring, like begonia, lilies and dahlia, will bloom throughout the summer up until frost. How do I start planting bulbs ? Clearing the site is the first important step. Any kind of soil is suitable, but it should be a well-drained area. If you have clay soil the top layer should be mixed with sand, top soil, peat moss or compost. Dig out the soil to proper depth. Loosen the soil and add fertilizer to the hole. We carry Bulb Booster and Bone Meal, two very good fertilizers to use. Place bulbs firmly in soil, pointed end up. Plant bulbs in clusters in the hole. Cover the bulbs with soil, water well, then add two or three inches of mulch on the top. How many bulbs should I plant ? Group color and varieties together. For example, 10 to 15 tulips, 7 to 10 hyacinths, 25 to 30 crocuses. It is better to achieve a mass of color in part of the garden than to plant one bulb here and there.
Planting Spring Bulbs The Groundwork Good drainage is absolutely essential for spring flowering bulbs. If your soil is mostly clay, then you need to mix in some organic matter such as peat moss, compost or aged pine bark to make the soil drain better.
The Tools and Their Uses After the area has been prepared, choose your tool for planting. The ordinary garden trowel, makes a very quick and handy bulb planter. To use, grab the handle so the inner curve of the spoon faces you, then stab straight down into the soil like using an ice pick. Just pull back on the trowel to open a pocket in the soil, tuck the bulb in pointed end up, and smooth the soil down. You can also use a special bulb planter. This comes in two versions: a hand tool bulb planter and a stand-up model with a long handle that gets you off your knees. Both make it easy to dig neat, circular holes of the proper depth for bulbs. Their cone shape pulls a plug of soil out as you withdraw the tool. You just plop the bulb in the hole and replace the soil.
Planting Depth and Spacing The basic rule of thumb to determine proper planting depth and spacing: 6-8 inches deep, 3-10 inches apart for large caliper bulbs (bulbs like tulips, narcissus and hyacinths which are approximately 2 inches in diameter or more) 3-5 inches deep, spaced 1-2 inches apart for smaller bulbs (bulbs like crocus, grape hyacinth, scilla, or galanthus which are 1 inch or smaller in diameter)
Be sure to add some fertilizer to the soil at planting time. Use either a type recommended specifically for bulbs or organic like bone meal. After planting, it’s important to water generously to get root growth started. For bed plantings, it’s good to add 2-3 inches of mulch, like pine bark, once the ground freezes. This keeps the bulbs cool in the event of uneven temperatures and helps prevent frost heave (soil movement caused by successive freezing and thawing). The mulch also helps keep the soil from dying out.
Some Additional Pointers Plant bulbs as soon as possible after bringing home. If you can’t plant them right away, store in a cool dry place. Remember, the greenhouse crew at Trax Farms will be happy to help you with spring flowering bulb selection and planting tips.
Amaryllis Bulbs Amaryllis has big spectacular flowers in many shades of red, pink, or white. Select a flowerpot 6 to 8 inches in diameter with a drain hole. Fill it about 1/3 full of good quality potting soil. Place the bulb in the pot, spreading the roots out gently. Fill the pot with soil up to the neck of the bulb. Do not cover the whole bulb. Do not over water. Put the pot in a warm sunny place.
You will enjoy watching the flower stalk gradually emerge. Each amaryllis bulb seems to have its own schedule but generally flowers will open in 6 to 8 weeks. Each stalk may produce 4 to 6 flowers; large bulbs may have 2 to 3 stalks.
After flowering, cut off the flower stalks and watch the leaves appear. Water and fertilize the bulb regularly through the summer. Stop watering in August; put the bulb in a cool dry place in September and let it go dormant for 8 to 12 weeks. Then bring it into the light, water it, and begin the cycle again.
Varieties
‘Red Lion’ – Bright red ‘Apple Blossom’ – White with a rosy blush ‘White Christmas’ – White with pale green center ‘Vera’ – Lovely rosy pink ‘Star of Holland’ – Red with white star center ‘Scarlet Leader’ – Scarlet ‘Peppermint Stick’ – Red-white striped ‘Christmas Star’ – Red with white star ‘Queen of Pinks’ – Rose ‘Lady Jane’ – Double salmon with white stripes ‘Pasadena’ – Double cheerful red and white starburst ‘Las Vegas’ – Hot pink with white star ‘Nagano’ – Tangerine ‘Rainbow’ – Double white with thin red edge ‘Marylou’ – Double blush pink/white
ATTRACTING AND FEEDING BIRDS IN YOUR YARD Attracting a variety of wild birds to your backyard can be very rewarding. To attract them you need 4 things: FOOD, SHELTER, WATER, & HABITAT. FOOD: To attract the widest variety of birds you should place a variety of bird feeders and food around your backyard. You need a platform feeder for ground feeding birds, hanging feeders for perching birds and suet feeders for insect eating birds. These can be used all year long. In summer add hummingbird feeders. SHELTER: Birds need to feel safe when feeding. Have your feeders near trees and shrubs. You can also provide birdhouses for them to roost in during winter and nest in during spring and summer. WATER: Birds need water to wash down the food and to bathe in. Provide fresh unfrozen water for them year round. You can use moving water or birdbath heater. HABITAT: Birds live in a variety of habitats. The more variety you have in your backyard the more wild bird species you can attract. Include: grass or ground cover (2” to 1’) shrubs (2’ to 5’) small trees (5’ to 15’) tall trees (15’ to 40’) Also provide plants that produce berries, seeds, fruits, nuts, sap, and nectar. Be sure to include some evergreen trees. Leave some dead trees for the woodpeckers and others that use them for food and shelter.
Platform feeders All birds can access this type of feeder and most any kind of feed can be used. They can be hung or mounted or left on the ground. Wooden feeders are to attract perching birds and most types of feed can be used. They can by hung or mounted. Tubular feeders will attract smaller perching birds and most types of feed can be used. They can be hung or mounted. Some even come caged to keep squirrels out. If you have squirrels make sure the feeding holes are enclosed with metal so squirrels do not chew the holes bigger. Thistle feeders are only for thistle (niger) seed and attract goldfinches, house and purple finches and pine siskins. They can be hung or mounted. Nectar feeders In April start putting out the hummingbird feeders until the end of October. Hanging feeders come with or without perches. The flat type that looks like a flower is good for orioles and butterflies too. The ones with perches are good for orioles too, or get one made just for them and ones made just for butterflies. There are packets you can buy to make the nectar for the orioles and butterflies and hummingbirds. Or make your own: 1 part sugar to 4 parts water. CLEAN YOUR FEEDERS OFTEN!! Birds can get and spread diseases from dirty feeders. Clean them every 2-4 weeks in winter and in spring, summer, and fall every 1-2 weeks. Use 1 part bleach to 10 parts water or use antibacterial hand soap and rinse well with clean water. Suet cage is for suets that are good in winter for insect eating birds and in spring and summer for mothers to feed their baby birds.
Bird(s) - Feeder(s) - Food Quail, Pheasants - Platform, Ground - Cracked corn, berries Pigeons, Doves - Platform, Ground - Millet, cracked corn, sunflowers Hummingbirds - Nectar Feeder - Sugar water, nectar, insects Woodpeckers - Suet Feeder, Wooden - Suet, insects, sunflowers, nuts Jays - Wooden, Platform, Ground - Nuts, sunflowers, suet, cracked corn Crows - Ground, Platform - Suet, nuts, sunflowers Titmice, Chickadees - Tubes, Wooden, Platform -
Nuts, sunflowers, suet Creepers, Nuthatches - Platform, Wooden - Suet, sunflowers, nuts Wrens - Wooden, Suet Feeder, Platform - Suet, sunflowers, nuts Mockingbirds, Thrashers - Platform, Wooden - Fruit, suet, nuts, sunflowers Robins, Bluebirds, Thrushes - Platform, Ground - Suet, insects, fruit, nuts Purple Martins - Platform - Insects Flycatchers, Phoebes - Platform - Insects Kinglets - Suet Feeder - Suet, insects Waxwings - Wooden, Platform - Fruit, mostly berries & raisins Warblers - Suet Feeder, Platform, Wooden - Suet, fruit, nuts Tanagers - Suet Feeder, Platform - Suet, fruit, insects Cardinals, Buntings, Grosbeaks - Platform, Ground, Wooden - Sunflowers, safflower, fruit, nuts Towhees, Juncos - Ground, Platform - Sunflowers, cracked corn, nuts Sparrows - Suet Feeders, Ground, Tube, Platform,
Wooden - Suet, nuts, sunflowers, cracked corn Blackbirds, Starlings - Suet Feeders, Ground, Wooden,
Platform, Tube - Suet, nuts, sunflowers, cracked corn Finches, Pine Siskins - Thistle Tube, Tube, Wooden,
Platform - Nuts, suet, thistle, sunflowers, fruit
BIRD TIPS When feeding sunflower seeds use black oil for small birds and striped for large birds. The shells of the seeds can be messy and must be raked away so as not to cause diseases. Feeding on your deck and at your window will let you see the birds up close but it can be messy. What goes in must come out. You will have to clean up the droppings. Mealworms are great to feed the birds, and you can buy them in a pet store. Peanut butter is good to feed birds. You can smear it on tree branches and trunks. You can also spread it onto pinecones then roll in birdseed and hang outside. This is fun for children to do. Peanut butter can only be used when it is really cold outside and water must be available. If you want to feed all animals in winter, you can use black oil sunflower seeds and suet in different kinds of feeders or scattered on the ground. Have water nearby and trees and shrubs. Place feeders around so as not to be too crowded. You will get many different kinds of birds, squirrels, chipmunks, turkey, raccoon, and deer. Many birds feeding together will attract hawks that will want to feed on the birds. You will have to watch out for neighbors’ cats and dogs that will come for the birds, too. In spring make sure you have red and pink flowers for the hummingbirds along with your feeder. Yellow and orange for butterflies. Birds tend to fly into glass windows and doors because the see the sky reflecting in it. To protect the birds you can use streamers or owl & hawk silhouettes or spider web clings. A combination of these help. Also cap chimneys & vents so as animals can not get trapped. Check before mowing or tree cutting for animals, mainly babies. Use non-toxic products on lawn and garden. When finding baby birds, if it is naked, put it back in the nest. If feathered, it is learning to fly and should be let alone. Mom is watching. If you must take it, then feed it soaked dry dog food then call either: Pennsylvania Wildlife Center at (412) 793-6900 or Pennsylvania Game Commission at (877) 877-7137.
Now that you have birds in your backyard, what are they? Here are some easy tips on how to identify those birds.
You need a good field guide on birds of Eastern U.S. You need a good pair of binoculars-7x20 is good. Check the field marks of the bird. Listen to the song of the bird.
Field marks of a bird are: size, color and markings, shape and size of beak, behavior and family. SIZE: How big is it? Bigger than a robin or smaller. A robin is about 10 inches. COLOR & MARKINGS: Check its overall color and check its head, wings, belly, and tail. SHAPE & SIZE OF BEAK: Check the shape and size of the beak. Is it short and stocky like a seedeater or long and slender like an insect eater? BEHAVIOR & FAMILY: What group of birds does it look like? Is it a perching bird or a ground bird? Does it climb up or down a tree?
Non-Native Backyard Birds: The House Sparrow is from Europe, then it was brought to England and then to America. It now lives most everywhere. It was brought as a pet bird. House Finches are native to Southern California. They were shipped to N.Y.C. in 1940 as pets illegally and released to avoid prosecution. Now they are all over the continent. Starlings are from Europe. A New York businessman brought 100 of them to Central Park in 1890. They have spread all over the country. That is when a law was passed.
Homemade Bird Food Hard Peanut Butter Mix 2 cups suet 1 cup peanut butter 2 cups yellow cornmeal 2 cups fine cracked corn Melt the suet (easiest if the butcher will grind it for you), allow it to cool thoroughly and then reheat it. Add the peanut butter, stirring until melted and well blended. Add the dry ingredients to the melted suet and peanut butter and mix together well. Pour into forms (yogurt cups, old butter containers or frozen whipped cream bowls work well) or suet feeders and cool until hardened. Hang in an onion or orange bag if you don’t have a suet basket. Feathered Friends Casserole Cook: 2 cups of oatmeal. While the oatmeal is still hot, stir in and melt 1 pound of lard and 1 cup of peanut butter. Add any combination of the following, in any amounts the mixture will hold: Bread crumbs Cornmeal Chopped unsalted nuts Uncooked oatmeal Raisins or currants (your own addition) Hang the mixture in a mesh bag or pour it into foil pans. Refrigerate or freeze the rest. From: “Women in Conservation.” Maxine Scarbo. Outdoor West Virginia, December, 1969, Vol. 33, No. 10, p. 18. Foliar Spray Concentrate Slow Release Plant Growth Stimulant “Deer Deterrent”
BOBBEX is an environmentally sensitive foliar spray concentrate containing natural and recycled ingredients. It is easily diluted for use, sprayed directly on foliage of ornamental shrubs, flowers, and non-food plants. It is non-burning, non-phytotoxic, long-lasting, and leaves a barely visible residue which will not wash off with hosing or rain. As a plant growth stimulant, BOBBEX can be absorbed by the roots as well as the leaves, provides trace minerals and micro-nutrients to worn out or poor soils and can be used with fertilizers.
Additionally, as a fringe feature, BOBBEX, while formulated and intended to stimulate plant growth and vitality, has been found to be an effective new adjunct that provides users with a strong degree of deterrence against damage to ornamentals and flowers by deer, for example, which have become a nuisance comparable to, or worse than Japanese beetles, gypsy moths, raccoons, rabbits, groundhogs, and so on.
There are many reasons or combinations of reasons for increased deer browsing problems at the residential level, including human encroachment, weather stress, nutritional needs, population numbers, maturation of abandoned farm lands, and negative landowner decisions on hunting, along with increased firearm restrictions. Browsing habits and prior foraging patterns are interrupted or totally discouraged by BOBBEX, which is not harmful to animals. It is a desirable alternative to physical barriers. Water dilutions are adjusted for seasonal changes and can be applied from 35 degrees to 90 degrees. Deer are put off by professional landscapers.
You can cut down on landfill usage and provide an inexpensive and readily available source of nutrients for your garden by building your own compost pile. In many communities, grass clippings, so well-suited for the compost pile, are instead taking up as much as 20 percent of the solid waste space in increasingly crowded landfills. By building your own compost pile, you can put your clippings to use in a way that will benefit your garden and your community. Composting is the process of turning clippings, leaves, and other yard material into a rich soil additive for use in gardens or around plants and shrubs. Compost piles work by generating intense heat and biological activity. You can make your own compost pile in prefabricated bins made of plastic snow fence, coated wire fence or treated wood, or you can build your own bins at home. At Trax Farms we have many compost bins in stock to help you get started. Start your compost pile with a four to six inch layer of organic material high in carbon, such as plant residues from your garden, grass clippings, household garbage, leaves, etc. Avoid using diseased or infected plant materials, meat scraps or fats. After you’ve established your base layer of organic material, add a thin layer of materials high in nitrogen, such as cottonseed meal or a chemical fertilizer. Follow this with several inches of garden soil and a dusting of ground limestone or wood ashes. Repeat these layers until you’ve reached a maximum height of five feet. Your compost pile should begin working within four to five days after it reaches a heat of 140 to 160 degrees. Within five to six weeks, the cold material at the outside of the pile should be turned into the center of the pile and watered if it is dry. After three to four months, the compost pile will become uniformly dark and crumbly. At this point, it will be ready to use.
When compost piles aren’t working properly, you’ll usually notice one or more of the characteristics listed below. Most of the problems can be corrected by taking the recommended steps. Pile is too dry – pile tends to dry out during hot, sunny weather. Without adequate moisture, microorganisms cease to function and decomposition stops. Monitor the pile carefully to assure moisture is the consistency of a squeezed-out sponge. Pile is too wet – Overwatering tends to compact the pile. When air cannot penetrate, it encourages anaerobic bacterial activity that results in fermentation and unpleasant odors. Turn the pile so it aerates properly and the materials dry to the consistency of a squeezed-out sponge. Pile has unpleasant odor – When the pile is overwatered or packed too tightly, oxygen can’t penetrate and aerobic microbes can’t function. Anaerobic microorganisms take over and cause unpleasant fermentation odors. To avoid this, don’t “stomp down” materials when they are added, and don’t add all fine materials. To correct the problem, add some coarse material and turn the pile over so it aerates properly and loses the extra moisture. Pile is inactive – Microorganisms carry out the job of decomposing organic material in a compost pile. You need a broad spectrum of microorganisms to activate the pile and get a rapid breakdown of organic material. If the proper ones are not present, decomposition will be slow and disappointing. To avoid this, add Ringer inoculant products that contain all the necessary organisms for rapid composting. Pile is frozen – Since microbes become inactive below 40 degrees F, small home compost piles can freeze in winter and start slowly again in the spring. Start the pile up by adding a compost pile recharger, like Ringer’s activators, mixing into the pile and turning over the surface material.
What Is Mulch? Mulch is a layer of material spread over the soil to protect it. Mulch can be used to protect an area from wind, rain, sun, weed, growth, water loss, or just to improve its appearance.
How Much Do I Use? This depends on what type of mulch is used and for what purpose. Straw may need to be applied up to a foot thick, while lawn clippings should not be more than 1-2 inches thick.
How Do I Find Out How Much To Buy? Use this formula: Volume needed = Length x Width x Depth; make sure that all units are the same (all feet or all inches). Ex. A plot 10 x 20 feet needs a 3” deep layer of mulch. Since 3” is .25 foot, the formula is 10 x 20 x .25 = 50 cubic feet. Most mulches are available either by the cubic yard (27 ft. cubed) or in 2 or 3 cubic foot bags. For this plot we would need 17, 3 cubic foot bags or about 2 cubic yards.
What Kind Of Mulch Do I Use? Let’s answer that by describing the various mulches and then you can decide. Hardwood Mulch – A shredded, composted material made from hardwood tree bark. It is also long lasting, stays in place and is fairly attractive. Mini-Nuggets – Small chunks of pine bark, long lasting, can be washed away; decorative but must be applied thicker than hardwood mulch. Nuggets – Large chunks of pine bark, easily washed from slopes, best used for decoration over a layer of a finer type of mulch. Cypress Mulch – Shredded cypress bark, a beautiful golden color, long lasting, stays in place. There are several grades of cypress bark, some of which break down much faster than others, so beware of the cheaper grades. Eucalyptus – The deep red color of this mulch is maintained by the natural oils contained in eucalyptus bark. These same oils help drive away many insects who do not like the smell or taste of it. Cedar – Made from ground cedar bark, very decorative, very long lasting, resists decay, stays in place. Cocoa Shells – A by-product of the chocolate industry. Very fine in texture, excellent for weed control, smells like chocolate. By recycling these shells we are reducing the waste stream from a major Pennsylvania industry. Wood Chips & Saw Dust – Often available for free. Compost before using or apply only in thin layers, as these materials can exhaust the nitrogen from soils as they decompose. Straw & Hay – Easily available, reasonably priced, short lasting (only 1 season), and not very attractive. Best used in vegetable gardens or when establishing new lawns. Straw has the seeds removed, hay doesn’t. Use straw on new lawns if possible. Grass Clippings & Leaves – Either compost first or use in very thin layers. These materials can deplete soil nitrogen as they decompose. Peatmoss – An excellent soil amendment, but a poor mulch, as it tends to blow away and is difficult to rewet once it has dried out. Plastic – Clear plastic can be used to speed up crops in the spring, and black plastic is an excellent weed control material. However, both prevent water from getting into the soil. Use these in narrow strips in the vegetable garden but not in a landscape situation. Paper – Newspaper can be recycled into an excellent mulch material, especially now that most use soy inks instead of chemical ones.
To get the kind of unblemished fruit you are used to buying in grocery stores, it is usually necessary to spray fruit trees according to a regular schedule. You do not want to forget to spray at the following stages: (1) Dormant Stage (late winter) - use Dragon Dormant Oil (2) Silvertip Stage (all the buds are closed - no green is showing) - use Ortho Home Orchard Spray (3) Pinktip Stage (petal color is just beginning to show) - use Ortho Home Orchard Spray (4) Petal Fall Stage (when the flower petals fall off) - use Ortho Home Orchard Spray
Ortho Home Orchard Spray
Ortho Home Orchard Spray is a multi-purpose spray to control many fruit insects and diseases. You can use this on apples, apricots, cherries, grapes, peaches, pears, and strawberries.
For apples and pears: Spray when new spring growth appears. Repeat at 7 day intervals up to bloom. After petal fall, repeat at 10 day intervals. Do not apply to apples and pears within 7 days of harvest.
For peaches: Make first application at pink bud stage. Apply from 5 to 7 sprays at 10 day intervals. Do not apply to peaches within 21 days of harvest.
For strawberries and grapes: Make first application at first sign of new leaf growth, then at 10 to 14 day intervals. Do not apply to strawberries within 3 days of harvest and to grapes within 14 days of harvest.
For cherries and apricots: Apply at full bloom, petal fall, 2 weeks after petal fall and again 2 weeks before harvest. Do not apply to cherries within 7 days of harvest and to apricots within 21 days.
**Note: This product is highly toxic to bees exposed to direct treatment on blooming crops or weeds. Do not apply this product, or allow it to drift to blooming crops or weeds, if bees are visiting the treatment area.
**Note: Please follow label recommendations on all pesticides to avoid plant damage.
Most Popular Early Spring Garden Pests In Our Area: Broadleaf Weeds Grassy Weeds Brush/Woody Weeds Ants Aphids Borers Boxelder Bugs Carpenter Ants Cockroaches Spider Mites
Suggested Product Solutions and Consumer Information. Reference Pest/Weed - Product Solution - Page(s) Broadleaf Weeds - Weed-B-Gon, GREENSWEEP Weed &
Feed - 130 Cockroaches - Home Defense Indoor, Outdoor Insect Killer - 649 Carpenter Ants - Ortho Ant Killer Dust - 60 Tent Caterpillars - Bug-B-Gon - Caterpillars - Diazinon Ultra, Rose Pride, Orthenex,
Bug-B-Gon - 729 Black Spot - - 425 Scale - Bug-B-Gone, Volck Oil, Isotox Insect Killer,
Orthene Systemic Insect Control, Rose Pride Orthenex - 736
Seed Potatoes Growing Potatoes Soil • Optimum soil is light, sandy soil, although most soils are suitable. This can be accomplished by adding peat moss and sand to your soil. • pH of 5.0-6.0 is optimum to control potato scab—test your soil.
Fertilization • Dehydrated manure-apply 40 lbs. per 100 sq.ft. • 05-45 lbs. of 5-10-10, 5-10-5 per 100 sq.ft. • Half broadcast prior to planting. • Half at planting time, 2” bands to the side and slightly below seed piece.
Planting • Cut the potato allowing 1-2 eyes per piece. • Cut so pieces weigh about 1 ½ -2 oz. each. (Most potatoes will be cut into 3-4 pieces) • Make trenches about 5 inches deep and put in a piece of potato every 8-12” in row and space rows 24-35” apart. • About 18 pounds are needed to plant a 100 ft. row.
Harvesting • When tops have withered and died down the potatoes may be dug. • Dry potato after digging, about 2 hours.
Storage • First week-temperature of 50-65 degrees. • Drop temperature to 40-45 degrees to prevent sprouting. • Potatoes should be kept dark. When exposed to light, they develop a green color and a semi-bitter taste.
• Potatoes grow in most soils, however there are certain conditions for optimum growth. • It is essential that certified disease-free tubers to be used to prevent many diseases which are carried over on tubers.
Winter Care of Stone Statuary
Fountains, Birdbaths, and Statues Do not use antifreeze in fountains. Best to store inside. If the fountain is too large then remove the figure and the pump (store inside). Next, turn the bowl upside down on pedestal. If this isn’t practical, fill the bowl with absorbent material: burlap bags, blankets, etc. Then, cover the entire fountain with a fountain cover. Should condensation droplets form on the inside of the cover, the burlap will absorb them. You have now protected your fountain for the winter season.
If you have a fountain that does not splash, bring it inside and run it during the winter. It makes a wonderful humidifier.
Recirculating pumps should be removed and cleaned if at all possible, then kept in a dry place over the winter.
Unless a piece is put on a wood deck or cement patio, you should place a patio stone 18” to 24” in diameter underneath it. It will keep it level and prevent it from lying in freezing and thawing water.
Birdbaths can be used inside as a plant stand throughout winter.
Stone planters can remain outside. Make sure the drainage area is not plugged.
In any kind of pot, planter, or urn, make sure there is at least 2” to 4” of pea gravel, broken red clay, or sand on the inside bottom to prevent potting soil from plugging the drainage holes.
If a product is painted, it is best to spray it with clear acrylic coating once a year. Make sure the piece is clean and dry before spraying. Choose a non-windy day for application.
The best way to maintain and clean natural stone is with bleach water. When the statuary is outdoors, use one tablespoon of bleach per week to control algae. (Be careful not to splash on surrounding plant material.)
For natural stone, a water seal product helps to repel water as well as maintain the integrity of tone. However, it does not prevent surface lines and natural aging of the product.
Bulbs Growing Hyacinths in Water: • Place bulb in glass in a cool room away from sunlight and keep the water level topped up to just below the base of the bulb • It rapidly produces roots, which grow in the water • Wait until the flower bud begins to show color before moving the rooted hyacinths in a warm, bright-lit room • The shoot then develops and produces blooms • Discard bulb, since it is unlikely to provide a good display the following year
Dividing Overcrowded Bulbs: • If bulbs flower less freely than in previous years, the deterioration is usually due to overcrowding • Lift crowded clumps during the dormant season, before the root growth starts • If not overcrowded, inspect bulbs for pest or disease • If there is no obvious problem, plant the bulbs in a different site
Years of Pleasure: • After the flower and the leaves have completely wilted, you can let the bulbs remain in the ground • After blooming, the bulbs continue to grow for another 4 to 6 weeks, storing food and forming next year’s flowers • Remove the dead flowers so that the bulbs won’t spend their energy making seeds • Allow the foliage to turn yellow and wither naturally – don’t fold the leaves up or cut the leaves off until they are completely brown • Leave the bulbs undisturbed through summer and apply fertilizer again in the fall • To get the bulbs to flower for several years, it’s necessary to add some fertilizer • Use a granular or organic
Naturalizing: • Bulbs spread throughout a lawn or meadow and are a lovely sight in spring • Naturalized bulbs pose a dilemma for lawn care. Mowing the lawn, and therefore the bulbs’ foliage shortly after bloom, prevents the plants from replenishing its food supplies • In areas of naturalizing, you must be willing to let the grass grow until the bulb foliage has yellowed • Naturalize bulbs in an area where mowing isn’t needed, such as along the edge of woods or in a meadow
Forcing Bulbs: • The bulbs are kept in cold, dark places for a few months before bringing them into light to encourage them to flower earlier than they do normally • Hyacinths, tulips, amaryllis, daffodils, and irises are all suitable
Planting in Containers: • Place a layer of rocks at least 1 inch in the bottom of the container • Bulbs should be planted in pots at the same depth as bulbs grown outdoors • Do not allow the soil to dry out completely • Keep the pots in an area that will prevent the pots from freezing in the winter (35-50 degrees) • After 10 weeks, the pots are ready to be brought into gentle warmth • Early-flowering varieties need less cold treatment than late-flowering varieties, which may need up to 16 weeks • Move containers into a cool room between 50-55 degrees, keeping them out of direct sunlight initially. Once the shoots turn green and elongate, move them into more light and warmer conditions, keeping moist but not wet. • In the home, the flowers will last longer if the pots are moved into a cool room at night • Bulbs that have been forced into bloom should be planted in the garden once spring arrives. They will not force well for a second year
Bulb Basics When to Plant: • Plant bulbs in the shade or sunlight in September, October, and November. • Plant before the first hard frost. The Soil: • Loosen well before planting. • Plant flower bulbs in any type of soil as long as there is a good drainage. • If using heavy clay soil, mix the top layer with sand, peat, or compost. How to Plant: • Plant in individual holes or many bulbs in a trench or large hole. • You can create an attractive, natural effect by ‘scattering’ the bulbs and planting where they fall. How Far Apart: • Plant the larger varieties 5 inches apart. • Smaller bulbs are best planted at 4 inch intervals. • If you prefer an uninterrupted area full of color, you can safely plant the bulbs a bit closer together. How Deep: • The rule of thumb is to plant bulbs twice as deep as they are high. Fertilizer: • At planting, apply bone meal or some type of bulb fertilizer in holes before placing bulbs in. • In early spring as soon as leaves begin to emerge, apply fertilizer again, trying not to get it on the leaves. • When flowers begin to fade, apply fertilizer again to keep the leaves green longer. This allows the bulbs to store more food, which is important for the formation of flowers the following year. • An alternative is to apply a four-month duration slow-release fertilizer in place of the spring feeding, this will only have to be applied once. Protection and Watering: • After planting bulbs, water soil well to start root growth. • In the event of severe frost, protect the bulbs by covering the soil with a layer of leaves, compost or other mulch. Disease and Pest: • Aphids – insect clusters on buds, shoots, and undersides of leaves. Sucks plant juices causing stunted or deformed blooms and leaves. Spray with Malathion or rotenone. • Borers – Wormlike larvae feed on leaves and move down to bulbs. Spotted, water-soaked and ragged leaves. Clean up foliage and stalks in fall. Spray Malathion when fans start to grow in spring. • Botrytis Blight – gray-brown spots on plant parts. Woolly fungal growth from spots. Also called gray mold. Buds fail to open and are covered with gray fungal growth. Leaves may wither or fall. Remove and destroy infected plant parts. Spray with Daconil. • Bulb Maggots – White or yellow larvae feeding on bulbs. Leaves become yellow and twisted. Plant stops growing. Discard soft bulbs. Soak firm bulbs in hot water at 110 degrees for 2 ½ hours. • Bulb Mites – tiny white arachnids found on bulbs. Discard infested bulbs. Soak healthy bulbs in hot water at 100 degrees for 1 hour. • Bulb Rot – fungal or bacterial rot on bulbs. Mold may cover bulb. Plants turn yellow, wilt, and die. Discard affected bulbs. Plant healthy bulbs in clean soil. • Leaf-Feeding Beetles – chew plants parts leaving holes. Larvae of some feed on roots. Handpick and destroy. Spray with Bug-B-Gon or rotenone. • Leaf Spots – spots on leaves or flowers caused by fungi encouraged by humid or wet weather. Increase air circulation around plants. Remove badly diseased leaves and flowers. Spray with benomyl if serious. • Nematodes – microscopic roundworms. Stunted off-color plants. Minute galls may be preset on roots. Remove and destroy badly afflicted bulbs. • Powdery Mildew – white, powdery fungal disease on plant parts. Remove badly infected leaves. Spray with benomyl. • Slugs – feeds at night, rasping holes in leaves. Use slug bait. • Thrips – scrape and suck plant tissue. Cause browning, white flecking, and gumminess. Sometimes deformed flower buds and leaves. Remove infested flowers and buds. Spray with Malathion or dust with sulfur or diatomaceous earth. • Viruses – crinkled, mottled deformed leaves, stunted plants, and poor growth. Remove and destroy infected plants. Control the insect vector (aphids). • Wilts – leaves turn yellow and entire plant may wilt and die. Remove infected plants. Practice crop rotation. • Wireworm – wiry, brown, wormlike beetle larvae feeding on bulbs and stems in the soil. Treat soil or bulbs with diazion before planting. Practice crop rotation.
Trax Farms Planter’s Guide for Bulbs Exposed Sites Bulbs that tolerate exposed or windy sites Anemone Chionodoxa Crocus Fritillaria Galanthus Muscari Narcissus, dwarf spp. Scilla Tulips, dwarf spp.
Wall Protection Bulbs that benefit from the protection of a wall Agapanthus Fritillaria Gladiolus Scilla peruviana
Flowers for Cutting Agapanthus Allium Anemone Camassia Dahlia Freesia Gladiolus Iris Lilium Narcissus
Rock Gardens Bulbs suitable for planting in rock gardens Allium, dwarf spp. Anemone, dwarf ssp. Brodiaea, smallest spp. Crocus Galanthus Iris, dwarf spp. Leucojum Muscari Narcissus, dwarf spp. Ornithogalum, dwarf spp. Scilla Tulips, dwarf spp.
Bulbs for Alpine Houses Anemone Crocus Fritillaria Galanthus Iris, dwarf spp. Leucojum Muscari Narcissus, dwarf Ornitogalum Scilla Tulips, dwarf spp.
Naturalizing in Grass Anemone Camassia Chionodoxa Crocus Galanthus Muscari Narcissus, dwarf spp. Ornithogalum nutans Scilla
Hardy Bulbs for Forcing Allium neapolitanum Camassia Chionodoxa Crocus Eranthis Erythronium Fritillaria Galanthus Hyacinths Iris Leucojum Lilium Muscari Narcissus Ornithogalum Puschkinia Scilla Tulip, Early blooming varieties Tulips
Spring and Fall Bulb Planting Bulbs flower practically the whole year through from February to November. Bulbs planted in the fall, such as tulips, daffodils and hyacinths, bloom from the middle of winter to July. Bulbs planted in the spring, like begonia, lilies and dahlia, will bloom throughout the summer up until frost. How do I start planting bulbs ? Clearing the site is the first important step. Any kind of soil is suitable, but it should be a well-drained area. If you have clay soil the top layer should be mixed with sand, top soil, peat moss or compost. Dig out the soil to proper depth. Loosen the soil and add fertilizer to the hole. We carry Bulb Booster and Bone Meal, two very good fertilizers to use. Place bulbs firmly in soil, pointed end up. Plant bulbs in clusters in the hole. Cover the bulbs with soil, water well, then add two or three inches of mulch on the top. How many bulbs should I plant ? Group color and varieties together. For example, 10 to 15 tulips, 7 to 10 hyacinths, 25 to 30 crocuses. It is better to achieve a mass of color in part of the garden than to plant one bulb here and there.
Planting Spring Bulbs The Groundwork Good drainage is absolutely essential for spring flowering bulbs. If your soil is mostly clay, then you need to mix in some organic matter such as peat moss, compost or aged pine bark to make the soil drain better.
The Tools and Their Uses After the area has been prepared, choose your tool for planting. The ordinary garden trowel, makes a very quick and handy bulb planter. To use, grab the handle so the inner curve of the spoon faces you, then stab straight down into the soil like using an ice pick. Just pull back on the trowel to open a pocket in the soil, tuck the bulb in pointed end up, and smooth the soil down. You can also use a special bulb planter. This comes in two versions: a hand tool bulb planter and a stand-up model with a long handle that gets you off your knees. Both make it easy to dig neat, circular holes of the proper depth for bulbs. Their cone shape pulls a plug of soil out as you withdraw the tool. You just plop the bulb in the hole and replace the soil.
Planting Depth and Spacing The basic rule of thumb to determine proper planting depth and spacing: 6-8 inches deep, 3-10 inches apart for large caliper bulbs (bulbs like tulips, narcissus and hyacinths which are approximately 2 inches in diameter or more) 3-5 inches deep, spaced 1-2 inches apart for smaller bulbs (bulbs like crocus, grape hyacinth, scilla, or galanthus which are 1 inch or smaller in diameter)
Be sure to add some fertilizer to the soil at planting time. Use either a type recommended specifically for bulbs or organic like bone meal. After planting, it’s important to water generously to get root growth started. For bed plantings, it’s good to add 2-3 inches of mulch, like pine bark, once the ground freezes. This keeps the bulbs cool in the event of uneven temperatures and helps prevent frost heave (soil movement caused by successive freezing and thawing). The mulch also helps keep the soil from dying out.
Some Additional Pointers Plant bulbs as soon as possible after bringing home. If you can’t plant them right away, store in a cool dry place. Remember, the greenhouse crew at Trax Farms will be happy to help you with spring flowering bulb selection and planting tips.
Amaryllis Bulbs Amaryllis has big spectacular flowers in many shades of red, pink, or white. Select a flowerpot 6 to 8 inches in diameter with a drain hole. Fill it about 1/3 full of good quality potting soil. Place the bulb in the pot, spreading the roots out gently. Fill the pot with soil up to the neck of the bulb. Do not cover the whole bulb. Do not over water. Put the pot in a warm sunny place.
You will enjoy watching the flower stalk gradually emerge. Each amaryllis bulb seems to have its own schedule but generally flowers will open in 6 to 8 weeks. Each stalk may produce 4 to 6 flowers; large bulbs may have 2 to 3 stalks.
After flowering, cut off the flower stalks and watch the leaves appear. Water and fertilize the bulb regularly through the summer. Stop watering in August; put the bulb in a cool dry place in September and let it go dormant for 8 to 12 weeks. Then bring it into the light, water it, and begin the cycle again.
Varieties
‘Red Lion’ – Bright red ‘Apple Blossom’ – White with a rosy blush ‘White Christmas’ – White with pale green center ‘Vera’ – Lovely rosy pink ‘Star of Holland’ – Red with white star center ‘Scarlet Leader’ – Scarlet ‘Peppermint Stick’ – Red-white striped ‘Christmas Star’ – Red with white star ‘Queen of Pinks’ – Rose ‘Lady Jane’ – Double salmon with white stripes ‘Pasadena’ – Double cheerful red and white starburst ‘Las Vegas’ – Hot pink with white star ‘Nagano’ – Tangerine ‘Rainbow’ – Double white with thin red edge ‘Marylou’ – Double blush pink/white
ATTRACTING AND FEEDING BIRDS IN YOUR YARD Attracting a variety of wild birds to your backyard can be very rewarding. To attract them you need 4 things: FOOD, SHELTER, WATER, & HABITAT. FOOD: To attract the widest variety of birds you should place a variety of bird feeders and food around your backyard. You need a platform feeder for ground feeding birds, hanging feeders for perching birds and suet feeders for insect eating birds. These can be used all year long. In summer add hummingbird feeders. SHELTER: Birds need to feel safe when feeding. Have your feeders near trees and shrubs. You can also provide birdhouses for them to roost in during winter and nest in during spring and summer. WATER: Birds need water to wash down the food and to bathe in. Provide fresh unfrozen water for them year round. You can use moving water or birdbath heater. HABITAT: Birds live in a variety of habitats. The more variety you have in your backyard the more wild bird species you can attract. Include: grass or ground cover (2” to 1’) shrubs (2’ to 5’) small trees (5’ to 15’) tall trees (15’ to 40’) Also provide plants that produce berries, seeds, fruits, nuts, sap, and nectar. Be sure to include some evergreen trees. Leave some dead trees for the woodpeckers and others that use them for food and shelter.
Bird Feeding Platform feeders All birds can access this type of feeder and most any kind of feed can be used. They can be hung or mounted or left on the ground. Wooden feeders are to attract perching birds and most types of feed can be used. They can by hung or mounted. Tubular feeders will attract smaller perching birds and most types of feed can be used. They can be hung or mounted. Some even come caged to keep squirrels out. If you have squirrels make sure the feeding holes are enclosed with metal so squirrels do not chew the holes bigger. Thistle feeders are only for thistle (niger) seed and attract goldfinches, house and purple finches and pine siskins. They can be hung or mounted. Nectar feeders In April start putting out the hummingbird feeders until the end of October. Hanging feeders come with or without perches. The flat type that looks like a flower is good for orioles and butterflies too. The ones with perches are good for orioles too, or get one made just for them and ones made just for butterflies. There are packets you can buy to make the nectar for the orioles and butterflies and hummingbirds. Or make your own: 1 part sugar to 4 parts water. CLEAN YOUR FEEDERS OFTEN!! Birds can get and spread diseases from dirty feeders. Clean them every 2-4 weeks in winter and in spring, summer, and fall every 1-2 weeks. Use 1 part bleach to 10 parts water or use antibacterial hand soap and rinse well with clean water. Suet cage is for suets that are good in winter for insect eating birds and in spring and summer for mothers to feed their baby birds.
Bird(s) - Feeder(s) - Food Quail, Pheasants - Platform, Ground - Cracked corn, berries Pigeons, Doves - Platform, Ground - Millet, cracked corn, sunflowers Hummingbirds - Nectar Feeder - Sugar water, nectar, insects Woodpeckers - Suet Feeder, Wooden - Suet, insects, sunflowers, nuts Jays - Wooden, Platform, Ground - Nuts, sunflowers, suet, cracked corn Crows - Ground, Platform - Suet, nuts, sunflowers Titmice, Chickadees - Tubes, Wooden, Platform - Nuts, sunflowers, suet
Creepers, Nuthatches - Platform, Wooden - Suet, sunflowers, nuts Wrens - Wooden, Suet Feeder, Platform - Suet, sunflowers, nuts Mockingbirds, Thrashers - Platform, Wooden - Fruit, suet, nuts, sunflowers Robins, Bluebirds, Thrushes - Platform, Ground - Suet, insects, fruit, nuts Purple Martins - Platform - Insects Flycatchers, Phoebes - Platform - Insects Kinglets - Suet Feeder - Suet, insects Waxwings - Wooden, Platform - Fruit, mostly berries & raisins Warblers - Suet Feeder, Platform, Wooden - Suet, fruit, nuts Tanagers - Suet Feeder, Platform - Suet, fruit, insects Cardinals, Buntings, Grosbeaks - Platform, Ground, Wooden - Sunflowers, safflower, fruit, nuts Towhees, Juncos - Ground, Platform - Sunflowers, cracked corn, nuts Sparrows - Suet Feeders, Ground, Tube, Platform, Wooden - Suet, nuts,
sunflowers, cracked corn Blackbirds, Starlings - Suet Feeders, Ground, Wooden, Platform, Tube
- Suet, nuts, sunflowers, cracked corn Finches, Pine Siskins - Thistle Tube, Tube, Wooden, Platform - Nuts,
suet, thistle, sunflowers, fruit
BIRD TIPS When feeding sunflower seeds use black oil for small birds and striped for large birds. The shells of the seeds can be messy and must be raked away so as not to cause diseases. Feeding on your deck and at your window will let you see the birds up close but it can be messy. What goes in must come out. You will have to clean up the droppings. Mealworms are great to feed the birds, and you can buy them in a pet store. Peanut butter is good to feed birds. You can smear it on tree branches and trunks. You can also spread it onto pinecones then roll in birdseed and hang outside. This is fun for children to do. Peanut butter can only be used when it is really cold outside and water must be available. If you want to feed all animals in winter, you can use black oil sunflower seeds and suet in different kinds of feeders or scattered on the ground. Have water nearby and trees and shrubs. Place feeders around so as not to be too crowded. You will get many different kinds of birds, squirrels, chipmunks, turkey, raccoon, and deer. Many birds feeding together will attract hawks that will want to feed on the birds. You will have to watch out for neighbors’ cats and dogs that will come for the birds, too. In spring make sure you have red and pink flowers for the hummingbirds along with your feeder. Yellow and orange for butterflies. Birds tend to fly into glass windows and doors because the see the sky reflecting in it. To protect the birds you can use streamers or owl & hawk silhouettes or spider web clings. A combination of these help. Also cap chimneys & vents so as animals can not get trapped. Check before mowing or tree cutting for animals, mainly babies. Use non-toxic products on lawn and garden. When finding baby birds, if it is naked, put it back in the nest. If feathered, it is learning to fly and should be let alone. Mom is watching. If you must take it, then feed it soaked dry dog food then call either: Pennsylvania Wildlife Center at (412) 793-6900 or Pennsylvania Game Commission at (877) 877-7137.
Now that you have birds in your backyard, what are they? Here are some easy tips on how to identify those birds.
You need a good field guide on birds of Eastern U.S. You need a good pair of binoculars-7x20 is good. Check the field marks of the bird. Listen to the song of the bird.
Field marks of a bird are: size, color and markings, shape and size of beak, behavior and family. SIZE: How big is it? Bigger than a robin or smaller. A robin is about 10 inches. COLOR & MARKINGS: Check its overall color and check its head, wings, belly, and tail. SHAPE & SIZE OF BEAK: Check the shape and size of the beak. Is it short and stocky like a seedeater or long and slender like an insect eater? BEHAVIOR & FAMILY: What group of birds does it look like? Is it a perching bird or a ground bird? Does it climb up or down a tree?
Non-Native Backyard Birds: The House Sparrow is from Europe, then it was brought to England and then to America. It now lives most everywhere. It was brought as a pet bird. House Finches are native to Southern California. They were shipped to N.Y.C. in 1940 as pets illegally and released to avoid prosecution. Now they are all over the continent. Starlings are from Europe. A New York businessman brought 100 of them to Central Park in 1890. They have spread all over the country. That is when a law was passed.
Homemade Bird Food Hard Peanut Butter Mix 2 cups suet 1 cup peanut butter 2 cups yellow cornmeal 2 cups fine cracked corn Melt the suet (easiest if the butcher will grind it for you), allow it to cool thoroughly and then reheat it. Add the peanut butter, stirring until melted and well blended. Add the dry ingredients to the melted suet and peanut butter and mix together well. Pour into forms (yogurt cups, old butter containers or frozen whipped cream bowls work well) or suet feeders and cool until hardened. Hang in an onion or orange bag if you don’t have a suet basket. Feathered Friends Casserole Cook: 2 cups of oatmeal. While the oatmeal is still hot, stir in and melt 1 pound of lard and 1 cup of peanut butter. Add any combination of the following, in any amounts the mixture will hold: Bread crumbs Cornmeal Chopped unsalted nuts Uncooked oatmeal Raisins or currants (your own addition) Hang the mixture in a mesh bag or pour it into foil pans. Refrigerate or freeze the rest. From: “Women in Conservation.” Maxine Scarbo. Outdoor West Virginia, December, 1969, Vol. 33, No. 10, p. 18.
BOBBEX Foliar Spray Concentrate Slow Release Plant Growth Stimulant “Deer Deterrent”
BOBBEX is an environmentally sensitive foliar spray concentrate containing natural and recycled ingredients. It is easily diluted for use, sprayed directly on foliage of ornamental shrubs, flowers, and non-food plants. It is non-burning, non-phytotoxic, long-lasting, and leaves a barely visible residue which will not wash off with hosing or rain. As a plant growth stimulant, BOBBEX can be absorbed by the roots as well as the leaves, provides trace minerals and micro-nutrients to worn out or poor soils and can be used with fertilizers.
Additionally, as a fringe feature, BOBBEX, while formulated and intended to stimulate plant growth and vitality, has been found to be an effective new adjunct that provides users with a strong degree of deterrence against damage to ornamentals and flowers by deer, for example, which have become a nuisance comparable to, or worse than Japanese beetles, gypsy moths, raccoons, rabbits, groundhogs, and so on.
There are many reasons or combinations of reasons for increased deer browsing problems at the residential level, including human encroachment, weather stress, nutritional needs, population numbers, maturation of abandoned farm lands, and negative landowner decisions on hunting, along with increased firearm restrictions. Browsing habits and prior foraging patterns are interrupted or totally discouraged by BOBBEX, which is not harmful to animals. It is a desirable alternative to physical barriers. Water dilutions are adjusted for seasonal changes and can be applied from 35 degrees to 90 degrees. Deer are put off by professional landscapers.
Composting You can cut down on landfill usage and provide an inexpensive and readily available source of nutrients for your garden by building your own compost pile. In many communities, grass clippings, so well-suited for the compost pile, are instead taking up as much as 20 percent of the solid waste space in increasingly crowded landfills. By building your own compost pile, you can put your clippings to use in a way that will benefit your garden and your community. Composting is the process of turning clippings, leaves, and other yard material into a rich soil additive for use in gardens or around plants and shrubs. Compost piles work by generating intense heat and biological activity. You can make your own compost pile in prefabricated bins made of plastic snow fence, coated wire fence or treated wood, or you can build your own bins at home. At Trax Farms we have many compost bins in stock to help you get started. Start your compost pile with a four to six inch layer of organic material high in carbon, such as plant residues from your garden, grass clippings, household garbage, leaves, etc. Avoid using diseased or infected plant materials, meat scraps or fats. After you’ve established your base layer of organic material, add a thin layer of materials high in nitrogen, such as cottonseed meal or a chemical fertilizer. Follow this with several inches of garden soil and a dusting of ground limestone or wood ashes. Repeat these layers until you’ve reached a maximum height of five feet. Your compost pile should begin working within four to five days after it reaches a heat of 140 to 160 degrees. Within five to six weeks, the cold material at the outside of the pile should be turned into the center of the pile and watered if it is dry. After three to four months, the compost pile will become uniformly dark and crumbly. At this point, it will be ready to use.
When compost piles aren’t working properly, you’ll usually notice one or more of the characteristics listed below. Most of the problems can be corrected by taking the recommended steps. Pile is too dry – pile tends to dry out during hot, sunny weather. Without adequate moisture, microorganisms cease to function and decomposition stops. Monitor the pile carefully to assure moisture is the consistency of a squeezed-out sponge. Pile is too wet – Overwatering tends to compact the pile. When air cannot penetrate, it encourages anaerobic bacterial activity that results in fermentation and unpleasant odors. Turn the pile so it aerates properly and the materials dry to the consistency of a squeezed-out sponge. Pile has unpleasant odor – When the pile is overwatered or packed too tightly, oxygen can’t penetrate and aerobic microbes can’t function. Anaerobic microorganisms take over and cause unpleasant fermentation odors. To avoid this, don’t “stomp down” materials when they are added, and don’t add all fine materials. To correct the problem, add some coarse material and turn the pile over so it aerates properly and loses the extra moisture. Pile is inactive – Microorganisms carry out the job of decomposing organic material in a compost pile. You need a broad spectrum of microorganisms to activate the pile and get a rapid breakdown of organic material. If the proper ones are not present, decomposition will be slow and disappointing. To avoid this, add Ringer inoculant products that contain all the necessary organisms for rapid composting. Pile is frozen – Since microbes become inactive below 40 degrees F, small home compost piles can freeze in winter and start slowly again in the spring. Start the pile up by adding a compost pile recharger, like Ringer’s activators, mixing into the pile and turning over the surface material.
Mulch What Is Mulch? Mulch is a layer of material spread over the soil to protect it. Mulch can be used to protect an area from wind, rain, sun, weed, growth, water loss, or just to improve its appearance.
How Much Do I Use? This depends on what type of mulch is used and for what purpose. Straw may need to be applied up to a foot thick, while lawn clippings should not be more than 1-2 inches thick.
How Do I Find Out How Much To Buy? Use this formula: Volume needed = Length x Width x Depth; make sure that all units are the same (all feet or all inches). Ex. A plot 10 x 20 feet needs a 3” deep layer of mulch. Since 3” is .25 foot, the formula is 10 x 20 x .25 = 50 cubic feet. Most mulches are available either by the cubic yard (27 ft. cubed) or in 2 or 3 cubic foot bags. For this plot we would need 17, 3 cubic foot bags or about 2 cubic yards.
What Kind Of Mulch Do I Use? Let’s answer that by describing the various mulches and then you can decide. Hardwood Mulch – A shredded, composted material made from hardwood tree bark. It is also long lasting, stays in place and is fairly attractive. Mini-Nuggets – Small chunks of pine bark, long lasting, can be washed away; decorative but must be applied thicker than hardwood mulch. Nuggets – Large chunks of pine bark, easily washed from slopes, best used for decoration over a layer of a finer type of mulch. Cypress Mulch – Shredded cypress bark, a beautiful golden color, long lasting, stays in place. There are several grades of cypress bark, some of which break down much faster than others, so beware of the cheaper grades. Eucalyptus – The deep red color of this mulch is maintained by the natural oils contained in eucalyptus bark. These same oils help drive away many insects who do not like the smell or taste of it. Cedar – Made from ground cedar bark, very decorative, very long lasting, resists decay, stays in place. Cocoa Shells – A by-product of the chocolate industry. Very fine in texture, excellent for weed control, smells like chocolate. By recycling these shells we are reducing the waste stream from a major Pennsylvania industry. Wood Chips & Saw Dust – Often available for free. Compost before using or apply only in thin layers, as these materials can exhaust the nitrogen from soils as they decompose. Straw & Hay – Easily available, reasonably priced, short lasting (only 1 season), and not very attractive. Best used in vegetable gardens or when establishing new lawns. Straw has the seeds removed, hay doesn’t. Use straw on new lawns if possible. Grass Clippings & Leaves – Either compost first or use in very thin layers. These materials can deplete soil nitrogen as they decompose. Peatmoss – An excellent soil amendment, but a poor mulch, as it tends to blow away and is difficult to rewet once it has dried out. Plastic – Clear plastic can be used to speed up crops in the spring, and black plastic is an excellent weed control material. However, both prevent water from getting into the soil. Use these in narrow strips in the vegetable garden but not in a landscape situation. Paper – Newspaper can be recycled into an excellent mulch material, especially now that most use soy inks instead of chemical ones.
Orchard Spraying To get the kind of unblemished fruit you are used to buying in grocery stores, it is usually necessary to spray fruit trees according to a regular schedule. You do not want to forget to spray at the following stages: (1) Dormant Stage (late winter) - use Dragon Dormant Oil (2) Silvertip Stage (all the buds are closed - no green is showing) - use Ortho Home Orchard Spray (3) Pinktip Stage (petal color is just beginning to show) - use Ortho Home Orchard Spray (4) Petal Fall Stage (when the flower petals fall off) - use Ortho Home Orchard Spray
Ortho Home Orchard Spray
Ortho Home Orchard Spray is a multi-purpose spray to control many fruit insects and diseases. You can use this on apples, apricots, cherries, grapes, peaches, pears, and strawberries.
For apples and pears: Spray when new spring growth appears. Repeat at 7 day intervals up to bloom. After petal fall, repeat at 10 day intervals. Do not apply to apples and pears within 7 days of harvest.
For peaches: Make first application at pink bud stage. Apply from 5 to 7 sprays at 10 day intervals. Do not apply to peaches within 21 days of harvest.
For strawberries and grapes: Make first application at first sign of new leaf growth, then at 10 to 14 day intervals. Do not apply to strawberries within 3 days of harvest and to grapes within 14 days of harvest.
For cherries and apricots: Apply at full bloom, petal fall, 2 weeks after petal fall and again 2 weeks before harvest. Do not apply to cherries within 7 days of harvest and to apricots within 21 days.
**Note: This product is highly toxic to bees exposed to direct treatment on blooming crops or weeds. Do not apply this product, or allow it to drift to blooming crops or weeds, if bees are visiting the treatment area.
**Note: Please follow label recommendations on all pesticides to avoid plant damage.
Pest & Product Solutions Most Popular Early Spring Garden Pests In Our Area: Broadleaf Weeds Grassy Weeds Brush/Woody Weeds Ants Aphids Borers Boxelder Bugs Carpenter Ants Cockroaches Spider Mites
Suggested Product Solutions and Consumer Information. Reference Pest/Weed - Product Solution - Page(s) Broadleaf Weeds - Weed-B-Gon, GREENSWEEP Weed & Feed - 130
Cockroaches - Home Defense Indoor, Outdoor Insect Killer - 649 Carpenter Ants - Ortho Ant Killer Dust - 60 Tent Caterpillars - Bug-B-Gon - Caterpillars - Diazinon Ultra, Rose Pride, Orthenex, Bug-B-Gon - 729
Black Spot - - 425 Scale - Bug-B-Gone, Volck Oil, Isotox Insect Killer, Orthene Systemic
Insect Control, Rose Pride Orthenex - 736 back to top
Growing Potatoes Soil • Optimum soil is light, sandy soil, although most soils are suitable. This can be accomplished by adding peat moss and sand to your soil. • pH of 5.0-6.0 is optimum to control potato scab—test your soil.
Fertilization • Dehydrated manure-apply 40 lbs. per 100 sq.ft. • 05-45 lbs. of 5-10-10, 5-10-5 per 100 sq.ft. • Half broadcast prior to planting. • Half at planting time, 2” bands to the side and slightly below seed piece.
Planting • Cut the potato allowing 1-2 eyes per piece. • Cut so pieces weigh about 1 ½ -2 oz. each. (Most potatoes will be cut into 3-4 pieces) • Make trenches about 5 inches deep and put in a piece of potato every 8-12” in row and space rows 24-35” apart. • About 18 pounds are needed to plant a 100 ft. row.
Harvesting • When tops have withered and died down the potatoes may be dug. • Dry potato after digging, about 2 hours.
Storage • First week-temperature of 50-65 degrees. • Drop temperature to 40-45 degrees to prevent sprouting. • Potatoes should be kept dark. When exposed to light, they develop a green color and a semi-bitter taste.
• Potatoes grow in most soils, however there are certain conditions for optimum growth. • It is essential that certified disease-free tubers to be used to prevent many diseases which are carried over on tubers.
Fountains, Birdbaths, and Statues Do not use antifreeze in fountains. Best to store inside. If the fountain is too large then remove the figure and the pump (store inside). Next, turn the bowl upside down on pedestal. If this isn’t practical, fill the bowl with absorbent material: burlap bags, blankets, etc. Then, cover the entire fountain with a fountain cover. Should condensation droplets form on the inside of the cover, the burlap will absorb them. You have now protected your fountain for the winter season.
If you have a fountain that does not splash, bring it inside and run it during the winter. It makes a wonderful humidifier.
Recirculating pumps should be removed and cleaned if at all possible, then kept in a dry place over the winter.
Unless a piece is put on a wood deck or cement patio, you should place a patio stone 18” to 24” in diameter underneath it. It will keep it level and prevent it from lying in freezing and thawing water.
Birdbaths can be used inside as a plant stand throughout winter.
Stone planters can remain outside. Make sure the drainage area is not plugged.
In any kind of pot, planter, or urn, make sure there is at least 2” to 4” of pea gravel, broken red clay, or sand on the inside bottom to prevent potting soil from plugging the drainage holes.
If a product is painted, it is best to spray it with clear acrylic coating once a year. Make sure the piece is clean and dry before spraying. Choose a non-windy day for application.
The best way to maintain and clean natural stone is with bleach water. When the statuary is outdoors, use one tablespoon of bleach per week to control algae. (Be careful not to splash on surrounding plant material.)
For natural stone, a water seal product helps to repel water as well as maintain the integrity of tone. However, it does not prevent surface lines and natural aging of the product.
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