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Deer
Resistant Trees & Shrubs
Trees
Carpinus
– American Hornbeam
Fraxinus – Ash Tree
Fagus – Beech
Nyssa Sylvatica – Black Gum
Betula – Birch
Cornus – Dogwood
Cercis – Eastern Redbud Ginko
Crataegus – Hawthorn
Gleditsia – Honey Locust
Acer – Japanese Maple Magnolia
Quercus Liquidamer – Oak Sweet Gum
Picea – Spruces
Liriodendron – Tulip Tree
Salix – Willow
Abies – Fir Tree
Amelanchier – Service Berry
Chamaecy Paris – Cypress
Cornus – Dogwood
Ilex – Holly
Junipers – Juniper
Malus – Crabapple
Pinus – Pine
Prunus – Cherry
Pyrus – Pear
Elaeagnus – Russian Olive
Shrubs
Barberry – Berberis
Bayberry – Myrica
Blue Mist – Caryopteris
Boxwood – Buxus
Cotoneaster – Cotoneaster
Forsythia – Forsythia
Holly – Ilex
Honeysuckle – Lonicera
Juniper – Juniperus
Kerria –
Leucothoe – Fetterbush
Lilac – Syringa
Mockorange – Philadelphus
Oregon Holly – Mahonia
Pieris Japonica –
Potentilla – Cinquefoil
Privet – Ligustrum
Quince – Chaenomeles
Scarlet Firethorn – Pyracantha
Smoke Bush – Cotinus
Spice Bush – Lindera Benzon
Spiraea –
Summer Sweet – Clethra
Viburnum –
Weigela
Trees and Shrubs Deer Love to Eat
Mulberry – Morus
Hemlock – Tsuga
Euonymus –
Holly – Ilex
Mountain Laurel – Kalmia Latifolia
Rhododendron
Roses – Rosa
Yews – Taxus
Arborvitae - Thuja
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Dogwoods
The Eastern or Flowering Dogwood is highly
prized by gardeners. It grows wild in abundance, attaining its greatest
beauty in the eastern mountains.
Flowering Dogwood is a tree of the understory,
protected by the high, thin shade of oak woods. It grows best along a
sheltered woodland’s south edge, beside rivers and lakes.
However, although the dogwood tree may
grow well, it still may not bloom. Flower buds form in August and September
as very noticeable, 3/8” buttons. Occasionally, if droughts are prolonged,
bud development may be delayed into autumn and the early cold then kills
them. Also, during severe winters, mature buds are progressively injured
by temperatures dropping below zero.
The “bloom” portion of the flower is actually
four white leaves called bracts, first formed in two pairs for bud coverings
through winter. If only the outer pair is damaged or killed, half or distorted
flowers result in the spring. A severe winter could kill both pairs and
proceed to injure the true flowers housed inside.
Flowering Dogwood prefers a porous, well-drained,
acidic, humus-filled soil, from 8-12” deep. An acid leafmold mulch of
at least 4” is beneficial.
The dogwood must never be exposed to extreme
winds, nor should the soil be allowed to dry out. A northern exposure
is not generally recommended. Warmer microclimates, such as in the wind,
should be sought.
Until sufficient top branches develop to
shade the trunk all the way to the ground, other shading should be provided.
The best is that of cool, living foliage of surrounding shrubs. The use
of Tree-Wrap does not offer the cooling effect, but may in fact be too
hot when in full sun. Shading of trunks, particularly in new trees, is
also very important in confusing and fending off the borer, an insect
pest of dogwood. Trees naturally growing in the open often develop many
trunks as a large bush or as a result of borer attacks.
Since dogwood likes an acidic soil, companion
shrubs may well be azaleas, rhododendrons, mountain laurel, and yews.
When in bloom, the Dogwood is best displayed against a background of deep
shadows or tall evergreens. It is one of the most brilliant trees in its
autumn foliage.
Dogwoods transplant best in very early
spring. Nursery grown stock must always be used, as native trees are protected
by law. Bare-root trees under 3 feet transplant well. Larger sizes should
be balled in burlap. Some trees in larger sizes often exhibit several
trunks. Pruning may be needed at once to remove interior cross branches.
All cuts and de-barked areas should be painted immediately. Large wounds
are slow to heal and must be painted every year or two.
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Flowering
Trees & Shrubs
For Moist Soil
Clethra alnifolia (Summer Sweet)
Cornus alba (Tatarian Dogwood)
Kalmia latifolia (Mountain Laurel)
Magnolia virginiana (Sweet Bay)
Salix discolor (Pussy Willow)
For Dry Soil
Buddleia Davidii (butterfly bush)
Caryopteris Species (Blue Mist Bush)
Cotinus Coggygria (Smoke Bush)
Cytisus Speacies (Broom)
Hibiscus syriacus (Rose of Sharon)
Lonicera species (Honeysuckle shrub)
Spiraea species (Spirea)
To Atrract Birds
Chionanthus virginicus (Fringe Tree)
Cornus Species (Shrub Dogwood)
Lonicera species (Honeysuckle Bush)
Prunus species (Flowering Cherry)
Viburnum species (Viburnum)
To Attract Butterflies
Buddleia species (Butterfly Bush)
Caryopteris species (Blue Mist Spirea)
Rhododendron species (Deciduous Azalea)
Salix species (Pussy Willow)
Syringa species (Lilac)
With Fall Foliage Color
Chionanthus virginicus (Fringe Tree)
Cornus alba ‘Sibereca’ (Red Twig Dogwood)
Cotinus coggygria purpureus (Purple Smoke
Bush)
Fothergilla species (Fothergilla)
Hydrangea quercifolia (Oak-Leafed Hydrangea)
Magnolia stellata (Star Magnolia)
Viburnum species (Viburnum)
With Winter Interest From Bark
Cornus alba ‘Siberica” (Red Twig Dogwood)
Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ (Harry Lauder’s
Walking Stick)
Cytisus species (Broom)
Hydrangea anomala petiolaris (Climbing
Hydrangea)
Hydrangea quercifolia (Oak-Leafed Hydrangea)
Kerria Japonica (Japanese Kerria)
Kolkwitzia amabilis (Beauty Bush)
With Branches For Indoor Forcing
Forsythia species (Forsythia)
Magnolia species (Magnolia)
Prunus species (Flowering Cherry, Almond
Etc.)
Salix (Pussy Willow)
With Ornamental Fruit
Chionanthus virginicus (Fringe Tree)
Cotinus Coggygria purpureus (Purple Smoke
Bush)
Daphne species (Daphne)
Kolkwitzia amabilis (Beauty Bush)
Lonicera species (Honeysuckle)
Magnolia stellata (Star Magnolia)
Prunus species (Flowering Cherry, Plum,
etc.)
Viburnum species (Viburnum)
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Fruit
Trees
Choosing a site for fruit trees in the
garden depends on space, personal preference, and the range of fruits
to be included. Fruit trees can be grown either in a separate area on
their own or integrated into the garden along side ornamental plants.
Choose a variety which suits your preference for size, shape, appearance,
and performance, spaced so it can reach mature size.
Grouping plants make it easier to maintain
fruit trees with similar cultural requirements, simplifying practical
operations such as applying fertilizer, or installing physical barriers
to protect fruits from birds, or wind damage. If there is only room for
a single tree, then it is essential to choose a self-fertilizing variety.
Wherever you choose to grow fruit trees in your garden, provide a sunny,
sheltered position where they will produce fruits of good quality and
flavor.
Once a location is chosen, dig the hole
twice the size of the pot or rootball. Combine peat moss or compost into
the hole and plant so that settled soil will leave the plant at the established
level. If there is burlap around the rootball - remove any string or wire.
If you can’t remove the burlap, place the tree in the hole, and remove
at least the top half of it. Backfill half way and water. Let water and
soil settle. Backfill the rest of the hole, mulch, and water again. Use
a time – release fertilizer placed around the root zone at the beginning
of the growing season.
Fruit trees may be trained into a variety
of forms. Some fruit trees are suitable for growing in trained forms such
as cordons, fans, and espaliers. They require careful training initially
and then are maintained by regular summer pruning to restrict vegetative
growth. Most require support wires, secured either to a freestanding post
or against a wall or fence. When deciding which forms to grow, bear in
mind the space available, the relative ease of harvesting, and the degree
of pruning and training needed to produce a plant that fruits well. Trained
tree forms are ideal for the smaller garden where a variety of fruits
may be cultivated in a restricted space.
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Holly
Although the upright American Holly has
been a traditional favorite, hollies as a group have been revolutionized
by a host of exciting new hybrids and introductions, which feature lustrous
dark green foliage, vigorous growth, a wide variety of sizes and shapes,
and deep red berries. Throughout fall and winter, the hollies have become
one of America’s most favored landscape plants. Tolerant of many difficult
site conditions, hollies are excellent choices for foundation plantings,
screen plantings, mass plantings, hedges, and more. Most hollies are slow
growing.
Cultural Needs:
Select and position in the landscape with
site conditions in mind (sun, wind, soil type)
Soils that are well drained and are moderate
to rich in organic matter
An acidic (low) pH level
A 2-3 inch layer of loose, airy mulch covering
their root zones
Fertilize in March and October with an
acidic fertilizer
Water every 3-4 days when newly planted
Best Use:
Woodland gardens
English gardens
Naturalized plantings
Foundation plantings
Specimen or accents
American, China, Blue,
San Jose, and English
Red or Yellow berry types
Avoid planting in extreme areas where wind,
dry, and hot factors are common. Blue and China will tolerate a wide range
of some of these conditions.
Requires male and female in order for female
to berry.
Japanese Holly
Produce small black berries
which are seldom seen.
They are usually trained as hedges and
do not need pollination.
Winterberry
Deciduous, need male and female to produce
abundant red berries for fall.
Tolerates wet feet.
Inkberry
Excellent evergreen for foundations.
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Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas have a broad spectrum of uses
in the landscape and garden. They will supply long-lasting color in the
garden for most of the summer. Their growth forms range from tree to shrub
to climbing types.
Hydrangeas require plenty of water and
thrive in soil that is rich and moist. Most do well in partial shade and
will burn or wilt in full sun unless well watered. Pick a planting site
that has dappled shade or receives morning sun, not hot blazing sun. If
the soil does not drain well, add sand or compost to lighten the soil.
Make sure the plant is watered well and never let it dry out.
Fertilize with an acid fertilizer such
as Holly-tone in spring and summer. Blueness or pinkness is determined
by how much aluminum is absorbed from the soil. Acidic soils allow the
plant to absorb aluminum, resulting in blue flowers. You can increase
acidity with peat moss, decayed oak leaves, dry blood or fish emulsion.
You can also add aluminum sulfate to acidify the soil – blue flowers;
or add lime to sweeten the soil – pink flowers.
Mophead type hydrangeas are slightly more
tender than lace cap types. All big leaf hydrangeas form buds on old wood
or on stems produced the previous year, so they should be pruned after
they flower. DO NOT prune in early spring even if your hydrangea looks
like dead stems, or you will destroy the flowers it will produce this
year. Hydrangeas new growth sprouts later in the season and you could
cut your bloom off. Severe winters can also damage new growth. Planting
in a protected spot or protecting plants with burlap may also help flowering.
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Junipers
Junipers are perhaps the most versatile
and hardy of all needed evergreens. Junipers are favored for use in open,
sunny locations in moderately moist soils. They are available as low growing
groundcovers, small to large spreading shrubs, and upright, pyramidal
shrubs. They display a variety of textures ranging from coarse and sharp
to soft, feathery, and smooth. Junipers offer a mosaic of color choices,
including greens, golds, blues, grays, and silvers.
Junipers need at least six hours of full
sun a day. If planted in shade, they become long and leggy. The golden
ones will lose their color. Water plants deeply, one inch a week, if natural
rainfall is insufficient. Do not let the root system of Junipers dry out.
They like a neutral to slightly acidic soil as do other evergreens. Junipers
need to be fertilized in the spring and again in the fall with an evergreen
feed. A good fertilizer helps promote root growth and a healthy plant
is less likely to get a disease and insect infestation.
Junipers are best used as ground covers,
foundation planting, mass plantings, and some varieties can be planted
in a pot.
*Growth Rate: Slow = 2-4”/year Med = 4-8”/year
Fast = 8-12”/year
Juniper ‘Andorra’
Growth Rate: Medium Form: Low Spreading
Mature Size (H x W): 2’ x 5’ Texture: Soft,
Feathery
Color: Bright Green (purplish in the winter)
Comments: Old Fashioned favorite
Juniper ‘Blue Chip’
Growth Rate: Slow Form: Ground Cover
Mature Size (H x W): 8” x 6’ Texture: Feathery
Color: Blue
Comments: Appealing upturned branches
Juniper ‘Blue Pacific’
Growth Rate: Slow Form: Ground Cover
Mature Size (H x W): 12” x 6’ Texture:
Coarse
Color: Blue-green
Comments: Low, trailing habit
Juniper ‘Blue Rug’
Growth Rate: Slow Form: Ground Cover
Mature Size (H x W): 4” x 6’ Texture: Fine
Color: Silvery Blue (purplish in the winter)
Comments: Hardy, very popular
Juniper ‘Blue Star’
Growth Rate: Slow Form: Low spreading
Mature Size (H x W): 2’ x 4’ Texture: Coarse
Color: Steel Blue
Comments: Compact mound
Juniper ‘Dwarf Japanese Garden’
Growth Rate: Slow Form: Ground Cover
Mature Size (H x W): 8” x 5’ Texture: Medium
Color: Bright Green
Comments: Oriental appearance, mounds with
age
Juniper ‘Gold Star’
Growth Rate: Medium Form: Medium Spreading
Mature Size (H x W): 3’ x 5’ Texture: Medium
Color: Bright Gold-green
Comments: Compact, excellent gold variety
Juniper ‘Gray Gleam’
Growth Rate: Slow Form: Columnar
Mature Size (H x W): 12’ x 4’ Texture:
Fine
Color: Gray-green
Comments: Upright growth habit
Juniper ‘Kaizuka’
Growth Rate: Medium Form: Pyramidal
Mature Size (H x W): 15’ x 6’ Texture:
Medium
Color: Bright Green
Comments: Open, irregular growth habit
Juniper ‘Mint Julep’
Growth Rate: Medium Form: Medium Spreading
Mature Size (H x W): 3’ x 5’ Texture: Medium
Color: Bright Green
Comments: Arching branches from center
Juniper ‘Robusta Green’
Growth Rate: Slow Form: Columnar
Mature Size (H x W): 12’ x 3’ Texture:
Medium
Color: Gray-green
Comments: Open, irregular growth habit
Juniper ‘Sargents’
Growth Rate: Fast Form: Low Spreading
Mature Size (H x W): 18’ x 8’ Texture:
Fine
Color: Bright Green
Comments: Dense growth, hardy
Juniper ‘Sky Rocket’
Growth Rate: Fast Form: Columnar
Mature Size (H x W): 15’ x 2’ Texture:
Fine
Color: Silvery Blue
Comments: Very narrow upright
Juniper ‘Spartan’
Growth Rate: Fast Form: Pyramidal
Mature Size (H x W): 15’ x 5’ Texture:
Fine
Color: Rich Green
Comments: Upright, excellent screen plant
Juniper ‘Tam’s New Blue’
Growth Rate: Slow Form: Low Spreading
Mature Size (H x W): 18” x 6’ Texture:
Medium
Color: Blue Green
Comments: Dense growth, very popular
Juniper ‘Wichita Blue’
Growth Rate: Fast Form: Pyramidal
Mature Size (H x W): 15’ x 6’ Texture:
Fine
Color: Silvery Blue
Comments: Broadly pyramidal, excellent
screen plant
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Rhododendrons
Renowned for their spectacular spring
flower shows, rhododendrons have long been traditional favorites in American
landscapes. Rich, deep, evergreen foliage, combined with a variety of
sizes, shapes, textures, and flower colors, make the hardy rhododendrons
a very beautiful and yet very diverse group of plants.
Whether used in natural woodland settings,
or as accents in a foundation planting, or mixed with other plants in
borders and bed areas, the versatile rhododendrons are an excellent plant
choice for many landscape situations.
Cultural Needs:
• Locate in areas sheltered from winds
and protect from bright afternoon sun.
• Light soils that are well drained and
rich in organic matter
• An acidic (low) pH level
• A 2-3 inch layer of loose, airy mulch
over their root zones.
Best Use:
• Shade gardens
• Mass plantings
• Foundation plantings
• Woodland and naturalized areas
Bloom Time:
Early = 3/15-4/15
Midseason = 5/1-5/15
Late = 5/15-5/31
“Choinoides”
Flower Color: White
Bloom Time: Late
Height: 3-4’
Comments: Sun tolerant
“Cunningham White”
Flower Color: White
Bloom Time: Late
Height: 3-4’
Comments: Semi-shade
“English Roseum”
Flower Color: Rosy Lavender
Bloom Time: Late
Height: 5’+
Comments: Heat, humidity tolerant
“Janet Blair”
Flower Color: Light Pink Frilled
Bloom Time: Midseason
Height: 4’-5’
Comments: Tolerates some sun
“Nova Zembla”
Flower Color: Dark Red-purple
Bloom Time: Midseason
Height: 4’-5’
Comments: Tolerates some sun
“Olga”
Flower Color: Peachy-pink
Bloom Time: Early
Height: 3’-4’
Comments: Sun or shade, drought resistant
“PJM”
Flower Color: Bright Lavender
Bloom Time: Early
Height: 3’-4’
Comments: Sun or shade, drought resistant
“Purple Gem”
Flower Color: Light Purple
Bloom Time: Early
Height: 1’-3’
Comments: Sun or shade, drought resistant
“Roseum Elegans”
Flower Color: Rosy Lilac
Bloom Time: Late
Height: 5’+
Comments: Semi-shade
“Roseum Pink”
Flower Color: Pink
Bloom Time: Late
Height: 5’+
Comments: Semi-shade
“Scintillation”
Flower Color: Light Pink
Bloom Time: Midseason
Height: 4’-5’
Comments: Large, glossy leaves
“Sumatra”
Flower Color: Red
Bloom Time: Midseason
Height: 3’-4’
Comments: Semi-shade
“Yaku Prince”
Flower Color: Pink
Bloom Time: Midseason
Height: 1’-3’
Comments: Sun tolerant
“Yaku Princess”
Flower Color: Pink, white buds flower
Bloom Time: Midseason
Height: 1’-3’
Comments: Sun tolerant
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How
To Plant Shrubs And Small Trees
It is very important that any new shrub
be planted properly. A little extra work at planting time will be rewarded
with a healthy growing plant. If the shrub cannot be planted immediately,
it should be watered well and placed in a shady place until the planting
site is ready. Planting should not be delayed more than a few days.
Dig a hole at least 12 inches wider and
6 inches deeper than the root ball. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the
hole to ensure good drainage. If the soil is mostly clay, be sure that
it will drain. If it does not drain either pick a different spot or dig
enough to break through the clay layer into subsoil. Mix peat moss or
top soil with the dirt removed from the hole, but dirt mixture should
not consist of more than half peat moss. You will use this soil mixture
to refill the hole.
If the shrub is wrapped in burlap, remove
it, or at least the top one third if the ball is very large. Make sure
all string or twine is removed. Twine left on may girdle and kill the
plant as it grows. Potted plants should be taken from the pot and examined
for circling roots. Remove or straighten any circling roots before planting.
Roots growing in a circular pattern around the pot may in time girdle
and kill a plant much like twine can.
Put enough of the soil mixture into the
hole so that when the plant is put in, the top of the root ball will be
about one inch above the original grade. Gently place the plant in the
hole. Gradually fill the hole with the soil mixture. When filled to original
grade, water in well with a slow stream of water. Usually the soil will
sink when watered. Now add enough soil mix to cover the root ball completely.
You should now have a slight mound one to two inches high. Cover this
mound with 2 to 3 inches of bark mulch to hold moisture and prevent weeds.
Water the plant again now, taking care to wet the bark mulch well.
Care after planting is also important,
especially for the first two months. Newly planted shrubs should be watered
at least once a week for the first month. If it rains during the week
then watering is probably not necessary, but do not fail to water if no
rain falls. After the first two to three months most shrubs should be
established, needing watered only during prolonged dry spells. These watering
instructions are for shrubs planted in fertile, well drained soil; take
care not to overwater if your soil is a heavy clay type. Drainage is just
as important to a plant as getting enough water. Plant roots will not
live long in a soggy, undrained hole.
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Small
Fruits
Blackberries & Raspberries
Blackberries grow best planted in a rich well-drained
soil in a sunny location. The pH of the soil should be 5.5 to 7.5.
Set the bush type 4’ – 5’ apart in rows 6’ apart.
The challenge of growing blackberries is that they will soon be prolific
growers if not pruned properly. Each spring canes should be mowed or cut
to 6 inches above the ground. When the new shoots get to be 3’ tall, cut
off the tips of the stems to force the development of side branches. Late
in the following spring after flower buds become visible, remove weak
canes and thin others to stand about 10 inches apart. Late in summer,
cut out and destroy all canes that have borne fruit.
Vine – Type blackberries should be planted 6 feet
apart in rows 8 feet apart. They can be cut the same as bush type. Blackberry
vines can also be trellised or grown on wires run from posts.
Heavy use of mulch will help retain moisture and
add humus to the soil. Feed both bush–and-vine-type. Plant each spring
by scattering 5-10-5 fertilizer around them at the rate of 1 cup per 16
feet of row.
Figs
If a fig tree is to be grown in zones 3-5, they must
be sheltered during cold periods or brought inside if they expected to
fruit.
Figs like sunlight, rich soil, and adding appropriate
amounts of fertilizer will help the growth and fruiting. Place plants
in an area, which is sheltered on the south or west side in full sunlight.
Covering during cold periods is essential for fruiting. The plant’s branches
can be tied together, wrapped in fiberglass insulation, and then wrapped
in burlap.
Figs like full-sunlight to shade. Keep moist and
water during dry periods for good fruiting production. Use a balanced
fertilizer with low nitrogen to enhance the ability to produce substantial
crops of fruit.
Blueberries
Blueberries are a carefree crop once they are established
in a soil to their liking. They may be grown in the landscape as hedges,
feature plants or as groundcovers.
A well-drained site in full sun is ideal. Blueberries
like an acid soil with a pH of 4.5 - 5.5. Add sulphur to acidify the soil
if needed. Plants should be fertilized in mid-summer. Use an organic acid
fertilizer like holly-tone.
Plant blueberries slightly deeper than the roots
and about 4 feet apart. Prune plants to three or four of the strongest
shoots and rub off all the fat fruit buds the first year. Mulch the plants
heavily at least 4 inches of mulch at the base of the plant to help retain
moisture and reduce weeds. The blueberries need at least one inch of water
a week.
For the first two to three seasons, pruning should
consist of removing dead, weak, low, or overlapping branches in order
to develop a good branch system. Continue to cut back the tips of the
very vigorous canes to control height and promote lateral branching.
Grapes
Growing grapes is a simple task for the home-grower
since they will grow in a variety of soils and can be trained on trellises,
arbors, and many more facades. Once established care consists entirely
on annual pruning, picking the fruit and dealing with Japanese beetles.
Mature grapevines need yearly pruning to produce
large clusters of fruit. Most varieties respond well to the umbrella style.
In the umbrella method, one-year-old fruiting canes are selected from
an established trunk and trained along a wire, trellis, or arbor. Grapevines
can be pruned anytime they are leafless.
Starting at the base of the trunk, remove any shoots
growing beneath the vine support, cutting them close to the trunk. Also
remove any dead wood. Choose four vigorous fruiting canes, ideally about
the diameter of a pencil, that originate near the trunk and grow more
or less in the direction of the supports. It is a good idea to tag these
canes so you don’t cut them off.
For each fruiting cane you have chosen, select another
nearby shoot and cut this cane back two or three buds. This will make
a spur, which will produce next years’ fruiting cane.
Remove all of the remaining canes, except the four
main canes. Shorten these canes so that each has about 10 buds or a total
of 40 buds per plant. Tie the fruiting canes to the supports with soft
twine or plastic tape so they do not cut into the vine. Repeat this process
at pruning time next year, choosing new fruiting canes from among those
that have grown from the spurs.
Blooming for several weeks at a time, many
of the summer flowering shrubs attract great numbers of butterflies and
hummingbirds, creating a very special garden setting. Available in a wide
range of sizes, shapes, colors, and tolerances, the summer flowering shrubs
are excellent plant choices for many landscape situations. Several of
the most popular summer flowering shrubs include Crape Myrtle, Rose of
Sharon, Butterfly Bush, and Hydrangea.
Cultural Needs:
• Locate with site requirements in mind
(sun, wind, soil type)
• Soils that are well drained and high
in organic matter
• A neutral to moderately acidic (low)
pH level
• A 2-3 inch layer of loose, airy mulch
over their root zones.
• Fertilize with Espoma Plant-Tone in March
and October
• Water every 3-4 days when newly planted
Best Uses:
• Screens
• Windbreaks
• Shrub borders
• Specimen or accent
• Naturalized areas
• Additions to perennial beds
Growth Heights:
Tall = 6’+
Medium = 4-6’
Low = 2-4’
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Summer
Flowering Shrubs
Abelia
Height: Medium
Exposure: Full/Part Sun
Color: White, Pink
Comments: Long bloom period, semi-evergreen
Althea (Rose of Sharon)
Height: Tall
Exposure: Full Sun
Color: White, pink, red, lavender, purple, blue
Comments: Long bloom period, good for hedge or border
Butterfly Bush
Height: Tall-Medium
Exposure: Full Sun
Color: White, pink, red, lavender, purple, blue
Comments: Long bloom period, attracts butterflies
Caryopteris
Height: Low
Exposure: Full Sun
Color: Blue
Comments: Long bloom period, very fine textured
shrubs
Crape Myrtle
Height: Tall-Medium
Exposure: Full Sun
Color: White, pink, lavender, red
Comments: Long bloom period, wonderful specimen
shrub, good fall color
Hydrangea
Height: Tall, Medium, or Low
Exposure: Part Sun/Shade
Color: White, pink, lavender, blue
Comments: Long bloom period, will tolerate moist
soil and shady areas
Hypericum
Height: Medium, Low
Exposure: Full Sun
Color: Yellow
Comments: Long bloom period, grows in dry places,
may be used as groundcover
Potentilla
Height: Low
Exposure: Full/Part Sun
Color: Yellow, white, pink, red
Comments: Long bloom period, good low hedge or border
shrub
Smoke Tree
Height: Tall
Exposure: Full Sun
Color: White, pink
Comments: Long bloom period, unusual flowers look
like puffs of smoke
Spireas
Height: Medium, Low
Exposure: Full/Part Sun
Color: White, pink, red
Comments: Long bloom period, good for hedges, borders,
or accents
Summersweet
Height: Medium
Exposure: Part Sun
Color: White, pink
Comments: Long bloom period, grows in moist soil,
very fragrant, attracts bees
Sweetspire
Height: Medium
Exposure: Full/Part Sun
Color: White
Comments: Long bloom period, beautiful long lasting
red fall color
Vitex
Height: Tall, Medium
Exposure: Full Sun
Color: Blue
Comments: Long bloom period, good late summer flowering
shrub
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Wisteria
Wisteria is a pretty carefree grower. It
can be stubborn with its bloom, but when it does bloom it is spectacular.
This plant must have sun, less than full sun retards flowering. All wisteria
need well-drained soil that has been loosened at least 2 feet down; this
gives the roots room to sprawl. If the soil is poor, add sand for drainage,
compost or peat moss to lighten the texture. When planting, position the
plant so the graft is above the soil line. Keep the new plants well watered
until new growth begins and never let them dry out.
Wisteria is a heavy vine that needs a sturdy
trellis or arbor. The trunks can be manually twisted or braided and the
rapid growth of the vines makes twisting and training easy. Position the
vines in place, stake, and tie with a soft cord.
Wisteria grows quickly and can live for
decades. It will survive almost anywhere, but getting it to flower is
not easy. Fertilize in late spring with a high phosphate fertilizer around
the base of the trunk. Do not use a high nitrogen fertilizer; this promotes
new vegetative growth and fewer flowers. Keeping the vine under control
helps divert energy to flowering. Also make sure it is in full sun. Root
pruning is often recommended to slow growth. With a sharp shovel blade,
cut into the soil around the trunk. Stay at least 2 feet away from the
trunk to form a circle 4-6 feet across. The vines should also be pruned
back by cutting 2 feet or more from the tips. A regular mid-July/August
pruning will boost flowering. New vertical growth should be trimmed and
suckers at the base of the plant removed.
Wisteria is one of the most trouble-free
plants with no significant pests or diseases.
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